Josephine Ross Flooring November 13th, 2018 - 03:57:45
Pergo flooring and I'm sharing the installation process of her go XP, laminate flooring in my studio. The first thing I had to do was crawl around and sink about. 2000. Proud screws. Next, I used a long straight edge to check the flatness of my floor. I looked for light peeking underneath the straight edge. That would show me that there was a peak or a depression. Peeks can be sanded down and depressions filled with a self-leveling flooring. Compound but my house is fairly new and the sub floor was pretty flat, so I didn't have to do anything other than take care of those 2000 screws, and then I swept and vacuumed for about the tenth time.
And then I started with my flooring installation. This is a floating floor, so all of my cabinet and permanent structures had to be in place before I started installing the flooring you can't install permanent structures on top of this type of flooring. Like you can a nail down hardwood floor, it can be tricky getting the first few rows locked together because the floor tends to screw around while you're trying to tap and lock those seams together. So it's helpful if you kneel on the first row as you lock the second consecutive rows in to each other.
Once you get three or four rows locked together, you can use your tapping block and smell it and tap the joints together, and you don't have so much of an issue with the floor. Scooching around. So I installed the two sections on either side of my cabinet and then installed one row that spanned the entire length of the room and joined the two sections I had to rip down the last row and I use my table saw to cut it to size And then I used the pull bar and the mallet to lock the seams together, and I press down with one hand on the edge of the pole barn that's gripping the floor, to keep it from jumping up and chipping the floor as I whack it with the Mallet so while I was pulling that last row into place and whacking it with the mallet, I separated the joint in the row.
I had installed to connect the two separate sections and though I had lined them up perfectly before I worked my way back to the window with all of the tapping and whacking to get the joints together. On the one section I had pushed it out of alignment with the first section I decided the way to handle. It was to add the first portion of a few more rows on to the first section to make it heavier so that when I moved it into place and had it lined up perfectly, it would be heavy enough not to scooch around and move around on its Own and then always able to continue the row, combine the two sections together and then move on the underpayment is attached to the back of the planks, so installation of both materials is a one-step process.
It was difficult to show you these details. While I was laying on the floor so I'm going to show you a close-up right now: each plank has a tongue side and a groove side, and they lock into each other alternately. You tilt up the tongue, insert it into the groove and rotate down and it locks into place.